We are typically installing the metal roof long before the plumber has had a chance to run the main vent stack up through the roof, and this part of the job seems to create a fair amount of undue anxiety for both the plumber and the homeowner. As with most of our shells, the timber frame was enclosed with SIP structural insulated panel walls and roof. This makes the installation even easier since there is no framing lumber in the roof to avoid. I use a slow turning right angle drill and a hole saw with an extension to drill up through the SIP and metal roof all in one clean shot. For this particular job, the plumbing had been run up to within a few feet of the roof panels. Using a plumb bob, I transferred the centerline of the pipe up to the ceiling and placed a mark there.
Metal Roofing: Penetrations and Flashings
How to Seal Between Metal Roofing Sheets | Home Guides | SF Gate
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On the surface, the idea of adding equipment to a roof without penetrations sounds pretty good. Keep reading to see why this may be the wrong approach It is understandable that people hate roof penetrations and try to avoid them at all cost. But instead of simply avoiding roof penetrations altogether, consider that if done properly, those painful leaks can be eliminated and rooftop equipment can be mounted securely. In fact, roofs are full of penetrations.
A typical pipe penetration in the field of a metal panel is completed with a flexible bellow-type boot. The boot should be set over the penetration and installed onto the metal surface. Sealant is applied between the metal panel surface and the metal flange of the pipe boot before fastening the flange to the surface. This application detail is acceptable on all penetrations that are located within the flat part of the panel and can be completed on new and remedial roofing applications.